Saltwater Reef Tank Guide
Saltwater Reef Tank Guide
I crashed my first reef in 2014. Parameters swung, corals bleached, and I lost six months of work in four days. This guide covers what I learned from that crash and every tank I have run since.
A reef tank is the most demanding and most rewarding thing you can keep in this hobby. Budget at least $800 to $1,500 for a basic 30-gallon reef setup with quality equipment. Do not cut corners on the skimmer, the return pump, or the lighting — these three pieces of equipment determine whether your corals live or die.
FOWLR tanks — fish only with live rock — are a good intermediate step between freshwater and a full reef. They use the same equipment as a reef but do not require coral-specific lighting or the precise parameter control that SPS corals demand. Visit Reef2Reef for the most comprehensive reef keeping community online.
Saltwater vs Freshwater — Key Differences
If you are coming from freshwater the biggest adjustment is the number of parameters you need to monitor and maintain. Freshwater fish are forgiving of parameter swings. Corals are not.
Essential Equipment
The most important piece of equipment in a reef tank. A protein skimmer removes dissolved organic compounds before they break down into ammonia. I run an Aqua Medic DC Runner on my 90-gallon and it has pulled consistent dark skimmate for two years. Do not buy a cheap skimmer — a skimmer that overflows your sump at 2am is worse than no skimmer at all. I learned this the hard way.
The return pump moves water from your sump back to the display tank. Size it at 5 to 10 times your display tank volume per hour. DC pumps with adjustable flow are worth the extra cost — you can dial in the exact turnover rate your system needs without adding a ball valve to throttle an oversized AC pump.
Corals require specific light spectrums — primarily blue wavelengths between 420 and 480nm — to support their zooxanthellae. The AI Prime HD is the light I recommend for tanks up to 24 inches wide. I have grown Acropora frags to full colonies under it over 18 months. The intensity and spectrum are controllable through an app which lets you dial in the exact light schedule your corals respond to.
Corals need flow to bring food to their polyps and remove waste. Random flow patterns are better than laminar flow — corals that receive the same direction of flow continuously can develop flow shadows where polyps die. The Maxspect Gyre creates a cross-current pattern that has worked well in my 90-gallon without creating dead spots.
SPS corals consume alkalinity and calcium as they grow. You must replenish these elements continuously or your corals will stop calcifying and eventually die. Two-part dosing is easier to set up. A calcium reactor is more stable long-term. I switched from two-part to a calcium reactor after my first SPS colony and have not looked back.
Target Parameters for a Reef Tank
| Parameter | Target Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Salinity | 1.025 to 1.026 | Use a refractometer not a swing-arm hydrometer |
| Temperature | 77 to 79°F | Stability matters more than exact number |
| Alkalinity | 8 to 9.5 dKH | Most critical parameter for SPS corals |
| Calcium | 400 to 450 ppm | Linked to alkalinity — do not dose one without the other |
| Magnesium | 1250 to 1350 ppm | Check monthly — depletes slowly |
| Nitrate | 1 to 10 ppm | Zero nitrate starves corals — some is necessary |
| Phosphate | 0.03 to 0.1 ppm | Zero phosphate causes coral bleaching |
Mistakes That Crash Reefs
Ready to choose your reef equipment? Browse our reviews of the best protein skimmers, lighting, and reef supplies tested in real tanks.
